The one thousand two hundred and fifteenth travelogue of sardinia.

The net is truly full of motorcycle travelogues about the second largest island in the mediterranean sea. the many great stories were for us then also the decisive motivation, there times the "cruiser suitability" to explore – because it is always better to see something with your own eyes than to read about it a thousand times.

We had read a lot about sardinia, of course – u.A. Also that september was a suitable "motorcycle month" should be; ergo we chose this. But that was all we took from other travelogues. We preferred to make our own experiences instead of trying to copy other travels and experiences. Experience shows that such things usually go wrong anyway.

For the sardinia trip we had only one week at our disposal. This is of course not enough to do the trip completely with your own motorcycle. So we decided to fly and rent a motorcycle on the spot.

As headquarters and starting point for our tours we had selected a hotel near san teodoro on the east coast. The selection of the HQ had no "mopedtechnischen" reasons, but it was the there advertised snow-white beaches with caribbean feeling, which attracted us simply magically. Our sardinia tour, even if it was only for a week, was not only to cover hundreds of kilometers, but also to include one or two days of relaxation. Small fishing villages, white beaches and some bars and fine restaurants within walking distance seemed predestined for it.

Rental car by fabrizio.

Fiat stilo by fabrizio

Since we had no desire on the tourist bus transfer, we wanted to rent a can for the trips to/from the hotel.

We had previously read some strange practices in car rental in sardinia – and not all only good, some rental companies are partly to be enjoyed with caution:

Deposits, which must be deposited via credit card, are often only released weeks after the vehicle is returned, or partial amounts are simply withheld from the deposit for no reason at all and without further notification. The bad awakening you have of course only when you are long gone from the island – and thus can not do much more. Such a thing can happen to you even if you have booked through large car rental portals, because they are only intermediaries and have in the case of suddenly nothing to do with what.

Thanks to a tip on the sardinia forum we got a contact to the landlord fabrizio. He does not belong to any car rental portal, does not have any professional intermediaries and does not have a homepage. With fabrizio everything is different: trust against trust, that’s his motto. You do not even have to pay a deposit!

also good: fabrizio waited for us in olbia directly in front of the airport building at the car, we didn’t have to join a long queue in front of one of the counters. Filling out the contract and handing over the car took less than five minutes. Instead of a rented fiat panda we got a stilo without extra charge. Our "sardine can cost for the six days 150 euros (fully comprehensive with 300 € SB inclusive). The tank was 3/4 full and so it was handed over again. Also the return was stress-free and in a few minutes directly in front of the departure terminal.

Clear recommendation: who needs a rental car from olbia, should choose one from fabrizio (contact link at the end of the report)!

Driving on sardinia is practiced darwinism

Hardly a "sardine (i know, it’s called sarden) seems to have ever seen a driving school from the inside. We assume that since Mussolini’s or Garibaldi’s time, the driver’s license has been passed down from generation to generation; or that you get the license automatically when you buy a car.

speed limits seem to be only officially suggested recommendations for the freedom loving sardinians. It does not matter if it says 50 or 90, they are driving as fast as they can. It becomes problematic, if you are a foreigner (at first) we had to keep to the official traffic rules, because then the leisure-ferraristi driving behind us are on the verge of running amok.

If you want to avoid this, you should adapt immediately. But be careful, because the carabinieri are lurking with their laser guns. A tip: you should not be the first to accelerate in a column, but always place yourself in the middle, because "lasered" only the douchebags driving ahead will be.

Another, almost unforgettable experience are oncoming sardines in curves. The sardinians all seem to be of the opinion that in a left turn, the vehicle must be aligned so that the center of the car travels on the center line. It is them sh. No matter whether there is someone coming or not, the curves are always cut. So in right turns (are from the view of the oncoming then left turns) is always to be careful.

In any case, we had decided – even before arriving in san teodoro – to adapt as quickly as possible and then we drove like pigs ourselves. The number of our traffic violations was finally in the high triple-digit range, caught or caught again. We were not stopped. Respect and recognition of the sardinians was us but sure.

last but not least you have to expect everything during the trip: donkeys, wild boars, cows and all kinds of things. One should not overlook that the cattle with preference on the streets the before umpteen times ruminated empties. The smaller or. More remote the road, the safer you also meet cow shit. Of course also like in curves. caution is advised there, too; at least with the motorcycle.

Even if you believe something else: driving on sardinia is a lot of fun – as long as you are willing to integrate – because one thing the sardinians don’t do: from our point of view they drive implausibly and as if they had left all good spirits, but nevertheless not so aggressively or rather. Opinionated as with us. It’s a bit stressful just before, in and behind the cities; if you go to the countryside, everything is much more relaxed.

Conclusion: driving in sardinia is simply practiced Darwinism – the (nerves) stronger survives.

Grande means big – and not necessarily beautiful.

We had the hotel "grande baia" booked on the east coast near san teodoro. What we did not know at the time of booking:

The northeast coast (from olbia southward) has not pleased us at all. We found it quite ugly. While we drove along the coast road SS125 in the direction of san teodoro, we heard several times from each other the sentence: we would have been better to fly to mallorca.

In the end, even the great architecture of the hotel could not change that. On the contrary, it made the disappointment really perfect: the hotel was also beyond good& evil in the middle of the pampas.


Into the ca. Ten kilometers away from san teodoro drove a shuttle in the evening, but it returned after a predetermined time – and we react allergic to such things. We would like to be flexible on vacation and not adapt to fixed times that some third party for us or. Over our head has determined.

We could have taken the car to the city, but then the Italian dinner would have been. The sundowner without vino and ichnusa (beer) expired.

The location of the hotel could also not have been enjoyed at the hotel bar – with prices of around five euros for a small beer or ten for a jacky/cola, the thirst and fun went away by itself.

Also on the beach there was by no means the much talked about Caribbean feeling. Who seriously claims this demanding comparison, has never been in the Caribbean. The beaches in the area were quite nice and very clean and the water always crystal clear, but a comparison with the Caribbean is very, very far-fetched, for this would have required a lot of imagination.

Last but not least we also drove to san teodoro. From our point of view it is also true: if you are looking for the hustle and bustle of an artificially created tourist village, you will find everything you need to be a tourist there – our expectations of Sardinia were completely different.

To say it again: the architecture of the hotel was great. The room was huge with 45m² and it was daily picobello clean. The service by the concierges was great – helene received the bouquet of flowers I had ordered by e-mail just in time upon arrival.

All in all, we would this hotel and the area but still not book again. It simply does not coincide with our ideas of vacation. But: if you only want to lie on the beach or pool with a daily ration of mineral water, and in the evening you want to go into town for an hour or two by organized touri-transfer, you can recommend it.

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Christina Cherry
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