Central Highlands: Ben Vrackie & Killiecrankie, a travelogue

In the Perthshire region, in the center of Scotland and only approx. 1,5h north of Edinburgh, lies the small town of Pitlochry (Gaelic: Baile Chloichridh or Baile Chloichrigh). In 1842, Queen Victoria and her husband Prince Albert enhanced the area by visiting and acquiring the Highland Estates of Balmoral, making Perthshire, and by extension Pitlochry, of interest to tourists. It was followed by the connection to the railroad network in 1863.

Many Victorian buildings have been preserved until today. With the charm of an old town, the green and wooded areas, the many sightseeing and hiking opportunities, Pitlochry is still a popular destination today and is perfect for a longer stay. Its central location in Scotland – close to the Cairngorms, the Highlands and the capital Edinburgh – also makes it an ideal base for exploring many of Scotland's sights and highlights. It was not for nothing that we chose Pitlochry as our base for our Central Highlands location trip in Scotland.

My arrival by train

My journey to this small, idyllic town began in South Queensferry, more specifically at the nearby Dalmeny rail station at 6.30 pm. It was early September and the sun was just rising as I rode the train across the historic Forth Bridge, crossing the Firth of Forth sea fjord.

It was an incredible experience to ride along the shore towards the Highlands in the sunrise atmosphere. (The fact that the train also follows the rules of left-hand traffic took some getting used to for me at the beginning, so I was always looking in the wrong direction in anticipation of the approaching train.) After about 2,5h I arrived at about 8am.45 o'clock in Pitlochry and walked through the still sleepy place, past the beautiful historic buildings.

Ascent to the local mountain Ben Vrackie

But my goal for today was not yet reached. For me Pitlochry served as the starting point for the hike up Ben Vrackie, the town's local mountain. With its 841m it enjoys great popularity not only with the inhabitants but also with the visitors.

To get to the starting point of the hike, I walked along an ascending road, through the mill settlement Moulin and thus came to the second hiking parking lot, from where the marked route starts. Since I was already so early on the way, I had the way as good as for me and could enjoy the nature and the impressions in an unusual silence.

The first part leads through a beautiful forest along a creek. After a short time I reached the open moor and heath landscape, which is interrupted by larger and smaller stones and rocks. It looked exactly as I knew it from the photos, films and documentaries about Scotland. A place where leprechauns and fairies live. Also the view back to Pitlochry and the surrounding villages as well as the river Tummel is fabulous, so that I often had to stop and let the view wander. I was also deeply impressed by the hills bordering me on the left, with their grass and pasture vegetation, already more purple-red than earth-colored. The constant uphill I did not get at that time at all and my taken chocolate cookies for the road could not have tasted better anywhere than here.

But it should still increase. When I arrived at the top, a completely new scenery presented itself to me, which was accentuated by the play of light from sun and clouds. Instead of green and purple the colors gold and brown dominated now. As I was walking alone along the winding path, I could not suppress the impulse and sang the Lord of the Rings soundtrack to myself. Because exactly in this world I felt transported. Too good to be true: the enchanting views, in between a dark blue mystic lake (Scottish: Loch) and the towering peaks around me.

But still another time the scenery changed. It became windier, the sun fought against the clouds and in front of me was a blue, restless water surface. Directly on my way was the Loch a' Choire and behind it I saw the last section of my hike, which should lead me stair-like over big stone boulders to the summit.

Totally enraptured I pranced past the loch and began the ascent. But one thing I learned quickly: in Scotland, the mountains and hills are not high, but the altitude meters you complete (felt) all at once. But the effort was worth it. With every meter of altitude the view and the panorama became more impressive. The whipping wind, as in a perfect production, reinforced the rough and wild impression of the Scottish Highlands.

At the top a panoramic view was waiting for me, which exceeded all my expectations. It was my first further day tour since my arrival and I was overcome by a wave of happiness and the watery eyes were not only due to the wind. After trying to convince myself that this is really reality, I started on my way back and if I may give a tip to visitors to Scotland, it is that it is always worthwhile to turn around and look over the way from the other direction.

On the Bealach Path

So I walked to a fork, where the Bealach Path towards Killiecrankie was indicated.

I took a look at the map and saw that it was a circular route, with a detour back to Pitlochry via the glen at Killiecrankie.

After a short discussion with myself regarding time, effort and tired legs I decided to dare the round trip and rarely I had a better idea. In the meantime a considerably larger number of people were on their way to the summit. Every second one of them asked me friendly and with a smile in the face about the wind conditions and the view. Nevertheless, I was happy about the deserted path through this fabulous nature that now awaited me. Fortunately it went downhill and I had a fantastic view towards Blair Atholl and over the purple colored moorlands. But at some point, I must confess, I was a bit unsure whether I had not lost my way, since there was really no one on this path. About the one young man who then came to meet me, I was accordingly more than happy and could from then on relieved and buoyant continue my way humming.

Gorge of Killiecrankie

Arrived in Killiecrankie, I walked along a beautiful forest path at a small waterfall and came directly to the river Tummel, which I followed for several kilometers. It was again a completely new scenery.

Without having informed myself beforehand, I was surprised by the many sights on my way. I passed an old viaduct and came to a bridge, from the middle of which the view into the gorge and onto the river from both sides was fantastic. Then I heard from somewhere loud voices and now and then a scream.

The astonishment disappeared when I passed a bridge from which bunjee jumping was offered and also perceived. I watched the spectacle for a short time and then continued on my way. As I got closer to Pitlochry I reached a beautiful forest that seemed to be a park and walked past an enchanting little loch, following the markings. Shortly before the city lies a small cafe with a kind of beer garden and invited me to rest, relax and let pass in review.

When I arrived back in Pitlochry, I was tired but incredibly happy and also very satisfied with my performance, so I treated myself to a portion of fish and chips while waiting for my next train back to Dalmeny. At the end of the day I could enjoy the sunset from the Forth Bridge with the view over South Queensferry on the way back.

The circular walk can be done as part of our Pitlochry location tour, but can also be included in our indivdiual car tours and train tours through Scotland.