Medellín Travel Guide: A Phoenix rising from its own ashes
Medellín Travel Guide: A Phoenix rising from its own ashes
Medellín was named the most dangerous city in the world in 1988 by Time Magazine, when Pablo Escobar and his gang terrorized its streets. In the early 1990s, the murder rate was so high that Medellín, home to Escobar’s notorious Medellín drug cartel, became the murder capital of the world.
Our guide, Juan, who gave us the city tour and lived the darkness of those past days, tells us that gang members kidnapped his uncle and father who worked in Medellín’s city hall and held them for ransom. He continues: “it’s a miracle that I made it to these days after being shot twice on the street by the same people.” The life and stories that we, outsiders of the country, watch in shows like Narcos are unfortunately the real memories and past of those people filled with the sadness and pain.
Despite all the difficulties of its past, Medellín today is a city that is constantly renewing and discovering itself. It has been reborn from its own past, just like a Phoenix. Medellín has progressed so much that it has stepped into a new age with regards to its urban development and transportation. In 2013 it was named “the most innovative city in the world” by the WSJ, after just a few decades prior being labeled the most dangerous city in the entire planet.
Medellín not only sets a precedent for its country, but also it has increased its international recognition. It inspired other cities throughout the world, thanks to the award given by the Wall Street Journal Magazine and Citibank.
*** In retrospect, nowadays Medellín is even considered much safer than many major U.S. cities, including St. Louis, Detroit and New Orleans.
Where to visit in Medellín?
The official foundation date of Medellín is 1616. However, there isn’t any ‘historic center’ in Medellín that hosts Spanish colonial architecture such as those of Bogotá or Cartagena. The reason is that the Spanish, who came to the continent with the aim of finding gold, did not like the quality of the gold in the valley around present-day Medellín and left the city alone for a few centuries.
Today, Medellín features a very modern transportation system, beautiful libraries and art galleries, and many international events organized throughout the year. Medellín is also known as the “the city of the Eternal Spring” thanks to its year-round warm climate.
Plaza Botero
Although it is not a particularly historical square, Plaza Botero is undoubtedly the most central point of the city. The world-renowned Colombian painter and sculptor Fernando Botero donated millions of dollars’ worth of sculptures to his own hometown. The collection is now on display in the square, which also bears his name. Located in the “old quarter” of the city, this square is home to the Rafael Uribe Uribe Cultural Center. Once you are in the square, don’t forget to also visit the Antioquia Museum to see many more works of Botero and other famous Latin American artists. Both the museum and the cultural center have free entrance.
Palacio de la Cultura Rafael Uribe Uribe
When are in Plaza Botero, this imposing domino piece looking stone building with its black and white facade will catch your eye alongside the most symbolic architectural references of the city, such as the Antioquia Museum, Berrío Park, and Basilica de la Candelaria. In 1920, General Pedro Nel Ospina Vázquez assigned the Belgian architect Agustín Goovaerts to build the Government Palace. Goovaerts designed the building in a Gothic Revival style. However, the building soon became the subject of so much controversy and criticism that after completing only a quarter of what he had designed, he left the city before he could finish the job. The city administration undertook the job and finalized the building in a completely different style.
When you look at the simplicity of the sidewalls of the structure, you will understand the difference. The Rafael Uribe Uribe Cultural Center is today a national monument of Colombia. The center houses the history and photography archives, music and sound recording archives, a cafe, library, documentation center, permanent art gallery and the museum of “Rafael Uribe Uribe”, all of which can be accessed free of charge.
Comuna 13 and the escalators
I have to admit, initially I was angry with myself for visiting Comuna 13 as a tourist. I was also frustrated with the fact that people have a completely different life from us and temporarily passing through pockets of poverty in the city has turned into a tourist activity. However, witnessing the transformation of Comuna 13 has since affected me so much that the cliché “I haven’t seen such a place in my life” is a perfect fit for this neighborhood.
When Medellín was the most dangerous city of the entire planet in the early 1990s, Comuna 13 was its ground zero. However, this district is also the personification of the transformation story of Medellín. The introduction of the open-air escalator system among the hilly streets has completely transformed the life of the community living here, where the walk could have previously passed for rock climbing, so to say.
The interaction of the 13,000 people living here with the rest of the city has increased much more, and new business and education opportunities have been created for those living here. On top of that, by adding colorful murals around the escalators, Comuna 13 has become a neighborhood whose commercial activity has increased and, slowly but surely, its social texture has begun to transform.
Even though it is much safer now compared to in years past, Comuna 13 is still not a quarter of Medellín where you want to find yourself come nightfall. Tourists are advised not to go without an organized group tour even during the day. We decided to go by ourselves anyways, of course not without observing common-sense safety practices. As such, we did not encounter any situation where I personally didn’t feel safe. The residents are accustomed to tourists by now. They kept greeting us with the kinds of phrases you’d expect to hear from your neighbor.
You will find some of the most beautiful examples of graffiti art in the entire world here in this very touching neighborhood. The colorful murals, which are brought to life by the artists who look forward to the future while never forgetting the difficult past, have filled almost every wall of the neighborhood. If you don’t prefer visiting Comuna 13 by yourself, you can join one of the organized “Graffiti Tours”.
Here are some sample of the most impressive pieces of graffiti art and murals from Comuna 13.
Medellín Metrocable
Medellín has a city structure in which the outskirts ascend the slopes of not just one hill, but many hills rising on either side of the city’s central corridor. The topological makeup of the city also played a significant role in past efforts to control the crime rate in the neighborhoods that were isolated behind the hills. T
he situation today is quite different compared to the past thanks in large part to a system of elevated cable cars. Known locally as the Metrocable, these cable cars connect the city’s various hilly neighborhoods as a viable (and entertaining) form of public transportation. The Metrocable system had a big impact on Medellín’s success in winning the “Most Innovative City in the World” award in 2013.
The five-line cable car system is one of the most creative and unique transportation systems in the world. The first cable line opened in 2004 and the newest in 2019. You can complete a full loop on one line and get off at the point where you started with a single ticket costing less than a dollar. While line J offers a more realistic picture of Medellín, gliding over public residential projects and city slums, line L is the most touristic one, connecting the city to the famous Arví Park. You need to pay about $3 more for this line if you wish to continue the park (I did mention it is a touristic line, didn’t I?). Unfortunately during my time in Medellín, line L was under renovation and we couldn’t have a chance to see Park Arvi. But we consoled ourselves with a ride on the J line.
***After touring the Comuna 13, you can easily reach the San Javier station of the J line. It takes about 20 minutes on foot, or you can take a short uber-ride. After making the 4-stop ring, the cable car returns to San Javier station after about 35 minutes.
Plaza Cisneros
Medellín is almost identified with change; so naturally, you will witness this transformation everywhere while touring the city. Plaza Cisneros is one of these makeover points. There are two main pillars of urban transformation in Medellín. The first leg is to build social projects in dangerous areas that were once taken over by illegal drug gangs. The second step is to turn each of those buildings and open squares, previously associated with crime and negativity into centers of hope.
This is what happened in Plaza Cisneros, where the street market was once located. The initial public library, Biblioteca EPM, which stands out with its magnificent architecture, was first built in a square where once illegal drug dealer-and therefore excessive violence-dominated. Afterwards, 300 light poles symbolizing hope were erected, and they can be seen lighting up the square at night. Even though I wanted to return to this square when night falls to photograph the light poles, our tour guide did not suggest it. So, again like with the other neighborhoods in Medellín, it is not suggested to be around Plaza Cisneros during nighttime.
Centro Comercial Palacio Nacional
Remember Belgian architect Agustín Goovaerts from the highly criticized Rafael Uribe Uribe Palace of Culture? This Art Deco-style building, designed by Goovaerts and built in 1924, was used as the National Palace until 1974. It received designation under the Nation’s Historical and Artistic Heritage in 1988, and it has been used as a commercial shopping center since its restoration in 1993. You can find all de-facto brands and a couple of cafes and restaurants inside.
El Poblado
You will witness a different face of Medellín in el Poblado, where the ‘gringos’, a term used for foreigners in Spanish, are abundantly spotted. I was quite surprised by the contrasts of the city after visiting Comuna 13 at noon and then seeing people dressed for a black-tie affair at the restaurant we went to for dinner in this chic neighborhood. As a traveler visiting the city, this is the neighborhood where you will probably stay. El Poblado is the SoHo of Medellín, with its high-rise luxury hotels, fashion boutiques, deep-rooted coffee culture, and numerous international cuisine options. If you find free time from the restaurant and coffee scene of el Pablado, you can also visit the Medellín Museum of Modern Art (MAMM), home of Medelin’s contemporary art scene, as well as nearby Parque Lleras.
Where to stay in Medellín?
As in many South American cities, also in Medellín it is not recommended to stay in the city center for security reasons. Nevertheless, we preferred staying in Hotel Gallery Medellín, located on the borders of la Candelaria on our first night in order to easily reach the city tour the next day. Obviously, while staying here, I felt neither uncomfortable nor super chill. Considering the security problems of the area we stayed in, we were of course cautious, and in the evening we reached the hotel only by taxi. Whether or not you stay in Central Candeleria is up to you. Apart from that, El Poblado is the most popular and touristy section of the city with a ubiquity of hotel options. Our second address was the Diez Hotel in el Poblado. The third option is the Laureles – Estadio region, which is quite popular with travelers because of its proximity to the city center, Candelaria. It is also not as touristy and noisy as el Poblado.
Eating and drinking guide in Medellín
Most of the restaurants I recommend here are located in the el Poblado district because, firstly, I spent the most time there. Secondly, el Pablodo plays the leading role in the city’s food and drink scene. There are places for every budget in el Poblado, but with its especially affordable prices, el Poblado is truly a fine dining paradise.
Restaurante Mondongo’s ($$)
The answer to the question of ‘where can I eat the most famous traditional Colombian dishes in Medellín?’ is Mondongo. This is a popular place where not only tourists, but also the local people and even the president of the country come to eat classical Colombian tastes. The restaurant, named after the traditional Paisa dish, Mondongo soup, has two different branches in Medellín, one in el Poblado and the other in Laureles.
*Mondongo is a festive tripe soup in which the tripe is slowly cooked in chicken or vegetable broth. Then various vegetables such as peas, carrots, onions and coriander are added. This hearty meal, which is much more than a soup, is considered one of Colombia’s traditional lunch dishes.
El Rancherito ($)
El Rancherito is the largest restaurant chain serving traditional Colombian dishes in the Antioquia region with nine locations in and around Medellín. On its menu you will find Bandeja Paisa, mondongo soup, ajiaco soup and dozens of other traditional Colombian dishes. Prices for Colombian dishes range from $2.5 to $9.
Alambique ($$)
It is absolutely unique with its decor and ambiance, and the taste and presentation of its dishes was indisputably beautiful. The worst part of this restaurant in my opinion was the service. I don’t know if that place is always like that or not, but it took more than one hour between taking our order and bringing the food (literally!)
Rocoto Peruvian Food ($$)
It is a stylish and successful restaurant with a creative menu, delicious meals, and a patio along the greenery by the river. The ceviche and fish carpaccio are definitely worth trying.
OCI.mde ($$$)
I do not know what the name of this restaurant stands for, but I complete the name directly in my head as OMG. I’ve eaten the best short ribs of my life here. It is a must-try restaurant. The plate presentations will put you in awe, the cocktails will blow your mind, the romantic atmosphere and the relaxing music playing in the background will appeal to you, and you will appreciate the fast service despite the jam-packed crowd that this restaurant attracts. Personally, it is my favorite in Medellín. The cocktails are delicious, and the desserts are the same. Although it is one of the more expensive restaurants of Medellín by Colombian standards, the prices are quite reasonable for a place in this restaurant setting. The main courses are around $10.