Travel Guide: Havana
Travel Guide: Havana
How to describe Havana? It is a city that somehow manages to be one of the most beautiful, neglected, vibrant, depressing, and exciting destinations in the world, all at the same time. Even now, I struggle to find the words to accurately convey the mixing bowl of experiences it somehow manages to offer. But, if I had to choose just one adjective to sum up the city, amazing would be the one which most comes to mind.
What to expect.
In Havana, life is lived on the streets, not in the crumbling buildings that line them. That is not to say the buildings aren’t beautiful, they are undoubtedly among the most stunning to be found anywhere in the world, but after decades of neglect, the result of a long-standing economic embargo, the people of Cuba have had to learn the value of patch-ups. From the clothes people wear to the cars they drive and even the homes they live in, people have repaired what they have rather than following the example set elsewhere in the world, of throwing away the old to make space for the new.
As cliche as it might sound, to walk the backstreets of Havana is to step back in time, experiencing those streets much as they were 50 years before. It feels like a city of magic, so atmospheric I wanted to pinch myself to confirm it wasn’t all a dream. But, I found myself dealing with mixed emotions as I explored this incredible city. On the one hand, I had thoughts of never wanting the city to change; such is its incredible movie-like aura. But, on the other hand, I empathised with the people who live there, who desperately wanted their city to modernise so they too can enjoy the benefits of everyday life we take for granted.
And yet, the necessity to renew rather than replace has resulted in the very sense of community I found so palpable everywhere I explored. Without a doubt, It was the people of Havana who make Havana such an incredible city to visit. Having never been shy about approaching strangers on the street to ask about their lives, the stories I discovered of every day life in Cuba were among the most fascinating I have discovered anywhere.
So, visitors to Havana can expect to get swept up in the romance of a bygone age, to be enamoured by the genuinely friendly people and stunning street views straight out of a movie. But they can also expect a community cut off from the outside world for so long it is starting to take its toll on those same people and streets.
Getting there.
Getting to Havana is pretty straightforward. Many major airlines fly to Havana, meaning travel is as simple as booking a flight. Getting permission to enter the country is a little more confusing, as it requires obtaining a tourist card and a tourist visa, depending on your nationality.
The important thing to note is that “tourist cards” and “tourist visas” are not the same. Everyone entering Cuba, regardless of their nationality, requires a tourist card. Essentially this is a landing card that must be purchased before travelling to Cuba. Costs (at the time of writing) range between $50 – $100 USD and are usually available to buy at the last airport before arriving in Cuba. It is not always the case, though; travellers will need to check how to obtain the card with their airline.
Tourist Visas are entirely different and are dependent on nationality. Nationals of most countries of the world are exempt from needing a visa, but some will require a valid visa to enter the country.
Travelling to Cuba from the USA is now much more difficult due to recent restrictions, so it is best not to go directly to or from the United States from Havana.
What to do.
Explore! That is the best advice I can give anyone visiting Cuba; head out and explore. Havana is a generally safe city with incredible experiences seemingly to be had at every turn, so this is somewhere to follow your nose.
There are some must-visit locations, though. The old city, known as Havana Vieja, is perhaps the best-known tourist hotspot. It is incredibly picturesque and probably best represents the heart of Havana.
The Plaza de la Revolucion is another classic destination for spending an hour or two admiring the vintage cars as they pass the steel memorials of some of Cuba’s “heroes of the revolution”.
The Malecon, a broad promenade that fringes the coastline, is a hub of local society. People will gather along the sea wall to fish, gossip about neighbours, argue about politics, and generally pass the time well into the evening.
A trip in a vintage taxi is practically a must while in Havana. Available from almost every street corner, these open-top classic cars will take you on a city tour. Admittedly, the experience is very touristy but is still the best way to see the sights.
Most of all, though, the people of Havana are the main attraction to the city. Instinctively friendly, the people are generally very receptive, and many of my most interesting experiences in Havana came from many unplanned interactions with locals.
Travel Tips.
Although it is possible to fly from most major hubs directly to Havana, travelling via Canada is the easiest. It’s only a three-hour flight from Toronto, with the tourist cards included in the price of all flights from Canada – they are handed out on the plane. Travelling via Canada will cut down much of the administration of visiting Cuba.
While the people of Havana are very friendly, it is worth remembering that the economy of Cuba has been severely affected by decades of embargoes. So, expect very many street hustles. Always confirm the cost of taxi rides and so on before setting off. And, don’t be surprised at people offering to take you to see a dance school, or to meet a cigar vendor, or otherwise show you around, only to demand an unexpected payment later on. There won’t be any aggression in these hustles, but it is always better to assume that payment will be requested and agree on a fee in advance.
Do not ask about Fidel Castro, the revolution, or other aspects of political life in Cuba. While this might be of interest to outsiders, the people of Havana, who have lived through the experiences of the past few decades, are often cautious of answering sensitive questions from tourists.
If staying in a hotel, do not leave cash on display in the hotel room unless you intend it as a tip. Custom in Cuba dictates that any money left out is a tip. So, if you are staying in a hotel, do not leave cash out unless you intend for the cleaning staff to assume it is for them.
Internet access is very limited in Cuba. Very few homes or businesses have their own connection, with locals and tourists alike dependent on pre-purchased Internet vouchers, which allow an hour of connection at a time. So plan to be disconnected for most of your stay in Cuba.