For the build your own dog transport box all you need is a little manual skill and some mental arithmetic for the dimensions of your individual homemade dog transport box. And, of course, tools and the right materials!
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Please also note the disclaimer for all projects built with ALUSTECK® according to these instructions and plans!
material list to build your own dog crate
To build the dog crate ourselves, we need aluminum square profiles, round bars, corner connectors, wooden boards (the best is screen printing boards from the hardware store because of the water resistance), hinges and bolts or. Closures (hardware store/ironmonger).
The following products from our onlineshop assortment form the alu cage frame:
Aluminum profiles
A: 2 x aluminum profiles 20 x 20 x 1.5 mm 2 double bars 10 mm inside angle (1.100 mm, sectional drawing C)
B: 2 x aluminum profiles 20 x 20 x 1.5 mm 2 double webs 10 mm inside angle (760 mm, sectional drawing C)
C: 2 x aluminum profiles 20 x 20 x 1,5 mm 2 double bars 10 mm inside angle (560 mm, sectional drawing C)
D: 2 x aluminum profiles 20 x 20 x 1.5 mm 2 double webs 10 mm internal angle (786 mm, sectional drawing C)
E: 2 x aluminum profiles 20 x 20 x 1,5 mm 1 double bar 10 mm flush (760 mm, section A)
F: 2 x aluminum profiles 13,5 x 13,5 x 1 mm without bar (523 mm, sectional drawing A)
G: 2 x aluminum profiles 13.5 x 13.5 x 1 mm without bar (753 mm, sectional drawing A)
H: 2 x aluminum profiles 20 x 20 x 1.5 mm 1 double bar 10 mm flush (560 mm, sectional drawing A)
Corner connector
Tools for the construction of the car transport dog box
- Paper and pen
- Folding rule
- rubber mallet
- Soft cloth or rag
- Metal drill
- Rivets
- riveting tongs
- screws
- hacksaw
- Drilling machine
- file
- Center punch
- Saw (for small adjustments of the wooden panels)
- cordless screwdriver
The planning
first of all you should start with the planning and construction drawing of the construction in order to determine the required materials and their values in case of individual desired dimensions. Then you know exactly what you need and you can compare the prices of the materials and the prices of the commercial ready-made boxes. For experienced technical draughtsmen we recommend the program sketchup as planning software for the planning and drawing. The instructions described here for self-assembly in individual steps are exemplary on the basis of the transport box shown above on the left.
If you have any suggestions for improving this construction plan, please do not hesitate to contact us. Constructive suggestions are always welcome to make our service even better for you. The exact determination of the individual lengths are not described here, since these can be different for each dog crate depending on make and model. Please also note our instructions for the correct length determination for the aluminum profile cut when building with ALUSTECK® systems! Order all the necessary corner connector elements and order the aluminum profiles in your desired cutting dimensions in our online store!
Assembly
These instructions are not binding and are only intended to explain the individual work steps by way of example. Since this is the construction manual of a customer, we make no claim that this dog crate construction manual, as well as its implementation is error-free and technically mature. We hope to be of great help to you anyway.
step by step to your own car dog box
Once you have all the parts, you can start assembling the box.
1. Work step
First, assemble the bottom part and then the lid, before these are then assembled to form the entire box. The door should always be the last to be assembled, as this allows you to compensate for small errors in the calculation by checking the dimensions directly on the box beforehand.
2. bottom part
For the bottom part we take 1 of each of the square profiles (VKP) C and H, and the 2 square profiles A. From the corner connectors (EV) we take 2 pieces each of the number 2 and 3. Now the VKP C and place an EV on each side 3 tap in with a rubber mallet, making sure that the double ridges point in the same direction as the outlets of the EV.
Next the two VKP A take the box and put it into the EV 3 insert so that the shape of a "U" is created. Again, make sure that all the double webs point in the same direction, as these are used to hold the wooden panels in place. Now we take the wooden panel cut to size and simply slide it between the double bars, if necessary use a saw to fit the panel so that it fits between them. The rest of the VKP H with the remaining EV 2 and attach it to the still open ends of the VKP A attach. The EV 2 do not tighten yet, as this will only get its final angle after the box has been assembled.
Now you should have a wooden plate with an aluminum frame lying in front of you. The bar of the square profile H is not intended to guide the wooden panel, but points downwards and limits the panel.
3. dog box top (lid)
For the lid we take each of the 2 square profiles (VKP) D and the 1 square profile H and C, and the remaining corner connectors (EV) 2 and 3. To assemble the individual parts, proceed in the same way as for the bottom part. Again, the wooden plate is not in the web of the profile at the front. The bar here points upwards and limits the plate. The upper part should now look identical to the lower part, except that it is a little smaller, since an angle/slope is to be achieved on the side where the door is inserted.
This is intentional because the trunk lid of most vehicles is not 100% straight, but we can still achieve optimal space utilization.
4. Assembling upper and lower part
It is best to place the bottom part so that the longest side is in front of us. Then we align it in such a way that the corner connectors 3 left and the corner connectors 2 are to the right of us and the respective free exits point upwards. On the EV 3 then the VKP B placed in such a way that the double webs point in the same directions. These serve again as a holder for the wooden plates.
Then we do the same with the remaining free EVs 2 and the VKP E. Before the lid can be placed on the entire construction, the wooden panels of the side parts must be inserted. To do this, use the boards that have already been cut to size or cut them to the appropriate format. Please note that the panels of the long side must be adjusted on one side so that they also have a slope. It is best to shorten the side panel to the lowest length and also to cut the height already.
Then insert the plate, stop the lid and mark the required bevel. now just saw everything to size and insert the wooden panel. Follow the same pattern for the other side. With the box height of 80 cm, I have chosen a height of 45 cm for the side parts, because the upper area should remain open for good ventilation and will be provided with round bars at the end.
If all side parts are inserted now also the lid can be put on completely. If everything fits perfectly, the EV 2 be tightened on the side screws. Now the basic framework of the dog crate is already finished.
5. Door for the dog transport box
To make sure that the ordered square profiles are suitable for the door, measure the open part of the box (with the bevel) again. If everything fits, the rods for the door can be measured and cut to size. Since the round bars are inserted into the square profiles, it must be ensured that these are longer than the lateral square profiles. With my door width of 55 cm, I have decided on a total of 4 round tubes, which I have distributed at the same distance in front of each other.
The door height I have set at 78 cm, so that we the four round tubes then also a length of approx. shorten 77,8 cm. Next we take the VKP F, in which our round bars are to be inserted and put them on top of each other. On both we now mark the distances of the rods and drill the holes at this marking so large that the round rods then fit in without any problems. I chose square profiles 13.5 mm thick for the door. So I chose the round bars with a thickness of 16 mm to match this.
Now we take one of the VKP F and join the EV 1 so that the open ends point in the same direction. Then we take the two VKP G and put it into the EV 1 so that the shape is again a "U. Before the rectangle is closed, the last EV and the round bars are inserted.
Now we take the last VKP F and assemble the door completely. So that the round bars do not start to rattle when the box is in the car, they should still be riveted. To do this, we take our drill and drill through the square profile at the round bars, insert the rivet and rivet it with the appropriate pliers. at the end just rivet the hinges and latches to the frame.
6. insert door
to insert the door, simply stop it at the intended place and mark the position of the hinges. Then pre-drill the holes and rivet the hinges on the door to the frame of the dog box. Finally, just rivet the counterparts of the latches to the frame and the door is ready for use and can be opened and closed.
7. Round bars for the dog carrier side parts
because there is a big gap between the lid and the wooden plates of the side parts, i fill it up on each side with 2 round bars. Stop the round bars at the desired position, mark them and shorten them to the appropriate length. For fastening, the double webs of the square profiles are used again, so I have also chosen 10 mm thick round bars here. Once all the bars have been shortened, they can be inserted and riveted to the double webs. Again, pre-drill and use riveting pliers to insert the rivets.
This is already the last action on the box, because it is now completely finished is.